![]() ![]() ![]() You are missing a pressure relief valve at the stove output. You do not need to put the rads in series, parallel also works with due attention to pipe sizes and you get better heat output from what would have been the downstream rads The fill part of the F&E would usually go to the low point as systems are best filled from bottom up although somewhere on the return pipe will work. Why not put the additional rads on gravity as well? And if you are depending upon the pump to give an over temperature 'safety feature' when you are subject to 'numerous power cuts' - life dictates that the need for the safety feature will only arise during a power cut! If you put everything on gravity the need for a loading valve (Laddomat and alike) or thermostats to manage the temperature maintenance on the stove goes away. With a heat exchanger the hot water id limited to the size of the heat exchanger. With an indirect DHW cylinder you get all the hot water as fast as you can remove it. There may not be too much difference in cost once you factor in the heat exchanger. The stove and heating would still be vented. I would put an in an indirect DHW cylinder, and use a mains pressure indirect cylinder if you want mains pressure DHW. Would really appreciate some advice on this one as hope to be plumbing this in next month. Similarly load valves and neutralisers - again not sure if they have any benefit or work on a gravity circuit? Any details i've missed on my layout? I've seen non-return valves shown on some schematics but not sure if these are necessary on a gravity circuit. Can the pumped circuit be manually switched as well as controlled with pipe stats? Be good to have that option as may feed a bathroom radiator on the pumped circuit.Ħ. Makes sense to me to be on the return as if the water is hot when returning to the stove then really need to be dissipating more heat.ĥ. Where shoud the pipe stats go for the pumped circuit? Some schematics show them on the flow from the stove and some on the return. One stove manafacturer told us we should feed the system at it's lowest point with a dog-leg in the pipe.Ĥ. Where should the F&E tank feed the system? Most schematics just show it dropping in anywhere on the return pipe. Can we use a single F&E tank for the whole circuit if we use a direct cylinder (i'm thinking something like the Gledhill Torrent ECO OV)?ģ. ![]() We want to avoid using lots of pipe stats and motorised valves etc to direct the flow around - mainly for simplicity and that we get numerous power cuts here so be good to have a circuit that took care of itself.Ģ. As the cylinder gets hotter more hot flow will head to the heat leak radiator loop on the narrower pipe work. Will it work as a gravity circuit? My thoughts are making the pipework to the cylinder 28mm will take priority over the 22mm pipework to the heat leak radiators so the cylinder will heat first. I just have a few questions about the system:ġ. A possible pumped radiator circuit to 1 or 2 other small radiators on 1st floor - this would be in case of the system overheating but also would be good to have option to turn pump on manually (see below). The pipe would then drop to a small (0.5kw) radiator in a utility room on the ground floor before returning to stove - again possible to keep the pipework descending all the way back to the stove. Two heat leak radiators in series with 22mm piping - one (2.5kW) on 1st floor landing about 6m away from cylinder (we can run pipes to it in a ground floor extension loft space so they can gradually rise). Want to use a thermal store as opposed to a standard cylinder for mains pressure hot water via heat exchanger - but am open to advice as to it's suitability. This is directly fed from stove on 28mm pipe. Vented thermal store cylinder (just used for DHW) of around 170L on 1st floor almost directly above WBS (3m rise). WBS with 20,000BTU (5.8kW) boiler on ground floor We'd like to keep things as simple as possible so have tried to design a basic gravity fed system as shown in the attached schematic. We've had great difficulties in getting a heating engineer to do the installation, or even advise us, so looks as though we may doing it ourselves with our very good builder (he's plumbed in boiler stoves before but by his own admission is no expert). We're going to install a wood burning boiler stove (arriving in a couple of weeks) to provide DHW and part of our heating needs. First post to the forum after reading avidly for the last few months! ![]()
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